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Tour 6/16: The Bonny Banks
'You'll tak the high road, and I'll tak the low
And I'll be in Scotland afore ye
But me and my true love, will never meet again
By the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond'
'Loch Lomond' Traditional song |
The Bonny Banks
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Of the many lochs in Scotland, a debate rages over which is the most beautiful.
Some say that Loch Maree takes the palm, others Loch Morar; but for sheer
variety none can match Loch Lomond. And I say that as unbiased as someone can
be who grew up near her shores.
Loch Lomond is certainly the most popular of Scotland's lochs, for it is a mere
18 miles from Glasgow: and on sunny summer days it can seem like half the
population of the city have decanted for a daytrip to her shores. Given that, it is remarkable how quickly one can find a secluded spot away from the crowds.
The loch is broad and shallow and dotted
with picturesque wooded islands in its southern half. Around here and the villages of Luss and
Balmaha, the crowds congregate. Indeed, there were so many visitors to Luss (a
picturesque village, popular with foreign tourists too) that a car
park was built which seems as large as the village itself. Loch Lomond was
the most deserving case in Scotland for a national park - yet despite her natural beauty and popularity, it was only with the new Scottish Parliament that national parks were legislated for in Scotland. (Doubly remarkable as it was
an emigrant Scot, John Muir, who invented the concept in Yosemite & Yellowstone in the USA in
the 19thc.)
Nearby is a nuclear submarine base on the Clyde, and the prosperous town of
Helensburgh - my home town, unique in Scotland for its mixed population of
sailors from all over Britain and rich commuters who work or own businesses in
Glasgow. The town was built with the coming of the railways for the use of well-to-do people, and abounds in large mansion houses. The most famous is the Hill
House, designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Glasgow's premier architect. Some large houses along the coastal road were designed
by Greek Thompson. Helensburgh was also the birthplace of John Logie Baird, the inventor of television.
Away from the southern end of Loch Lomond, the hills crowd the narrowing shores and the scene becomes decidedly wilder, the loch fingering into the Trossachs toward Breadalbane. Here, the east side of the loch is
roadless and a fine wild path - part of the West Highland Way between
Glasgow and Fort William - clings to the shore. In the times before the Highlands were tamed this was bandit country, and was within easy striking
distance of the rich farms of the Lowlands. The most notorious of all the
Highland clans - the MacGregors - lived here, and were always up to something.
The whole area inhabited by the MacGregors, the Trossachs, is a fairly rugged
stretch of country between Loch Lomond and Stirling, an area of lochs, forests
and small glens, all built on a slightly smaller scale than the rest of the
Highlands further north. In fact, the area was known as the Highlands in
Miniature, and being so accessible from central Scotland was the first area in
Scotland to experience the new phenomenon of the tourist. Prior to the 19thc.,
people rarely left their own districts except for trade or war, but the Industrial
Age brought railways, burgeouning cities, and a new appreciation of the
beauties of nature and aboriginal people. Now that the Highlander was no longer a threat, their old way of life was seen by the pan-European Romantic movement
as picturesque, and the Trossachs were a favourite target for tourists,
encouraged by Sir Walter Scott and his romantic novels about the MacGregors. It
is still a picturesque area, especially around the foot of Loch Katrine, but
the modern carbound tourist is liable to speed through the Trossachs - a fairly
small area - in rather a short time. The outlook from the Trossachs is back to
the Lowlands, and, from any hilltop, Stirling castle on its rock can be seen. |
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 Duncryne View |
 The Cobbler |
 Duck Bay, Loch Lomond |
 Loch Lomond near Inverarnan |
 Looking towards Glasgow from Ben Lomond on Boxing Day |
 The summit of Ben Lomond |
 Beinn Dorain from the West Highland Way |
 The Arrochar 'Alps' |
 The Hillhouse in springtime |
 Nuclear Sub in the Clyde |
 Autumn at Loch Ard in the Trossachs |
 On Stob a' Choin above the Trossachs |
 Loch Achray |
 Highland Cattle |
 A82 Above Crianlarich |
 Beinn Challum |
 Loch Lomond from the Whangie |
 The Breadalbane hills |
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Argyll & the isles MAIN MAP The kingdom of Fife
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Inventors: In the years between 1750 and 1950 Scotland seems to have produced far more than her fair share of innovators - Alexander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone, came from Edinburgh, as did Alexander Fleming, discoverer of penicillin. The renaissance inventor of logarithmns and decimal points came from Edinburgh, and we have already mentioned in passing James Watt (steam engine) and Kirkpatrick Macmillan (bicycle). The inventors of tarred roads, and pneumatic tyres, and radar, and fountain pens, and the Bank of England, and the cure for scurvy, and the cure for malaria, and the US Navy, and the unified theory of elecromagnetism, all came from Scotland, as did numerous pioneers, explorers and missionaries in Africa, Australasia and America. In fact all this is the subject of an humourous teatowel one can buy in tourist shops! So why did so much came from Scotland in that period? I suspect that a combination of three factors - the Calvinist work ethic, the very early emphasis on universal education in Scotland, and the union with England bringing internal security, organisational networks, and huge untapped territories abroad - helped Scotland flourish at this particular time (Scotland and England united in 1707 in a non-violent if initially generally unpopular move to create the British state).
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McGregors: In fact, the MacGregors were one of the most persecuted clans in Scoland. In a clan battle in 1603 between MacGregor and Colquhoun which started over a dispute about a stolen sheep, the MacGregors were triumphant, and killed also some children who came to watch from the nearby town of Dumbarton. The Colquhoun chief made a dramatic representation to the king in Edinburgh, taking with him the bloodstained clothes of the victims of the battle, carried into royal presence by the wailing mothers of the dead. This made a powerful impression on the king and he outlawed the very name MacGregor, with anyone naming himself so being fair game to be killed on sight. Generally the people took on the names of surrounding clans, but it was hard on them to have their weapons confiscated and to be barred from congregating in large numbers. Many continued as they were, however, fleeing to inaccessible parts of the Highlands such as Rannoch Moor and, being denied the opportunity to raise crops or cattle, became full time hardened bandits, whose fierceness became legendary, even amongst the warlike Highland clans - some of whom invited MacGregors to help them win clan battles, then regretted it when they settled on their land and became a menace to all around. By the time of the famous Rob Roy MacGregor, things were a little easier, and with the improvement of roads and building of bridges by the British army in the 18thc., the entire country finally came under central government control.
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